Queen Of The Bias Cut

Madeleine Vionnet in 1923 with a mannequin mounted to a piano bench

Rekindling my love affair with Madleine Vionnet and her free-flowing style all over again.

Madeleine Vionnet, Dress, made from silk tulle, panne velvet and horsehair with a silver lamé underdress and Lesage embroidery, 1938

Madeleine Vionnet, Dress, summer 1937, collection Les Arts Décoratifs, U.F.A.C

 

Madeleine Vionnet trained in the well known fashion houses of Callot Soeurs (Callot Sisters) and Jacques Doucet. While there she discovered a way to work with fabric that sealed her destiny.  Her influence is now seen in every slinky, body-skimming dress. She developed a style of three-dimensional cutting, using the three ways of fabric: lengthwise, crosswise, and bias. Cutting on bias is the practice of cutting cloth diagonal to the grain of the fabric that enables it to cling to and move with the wearer.

Madeleine Vionnet design, 1914

Evening dress, 1938
Silver lamé and ivory silk net
The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Madeleine Vionnet, in la Gazette du Bon Ton, illustration by Thayaht, 1923

In 1912 she founded Vionnet, her own fashion house. She was one of the first designers (along with Poiret and Chanel) to liberate women from corsets. Her designs produced sensuously shaped, floating dresses with lowered waistlines that transformed Greek and Medieval inspirations into distinctly modern clothes made in silk, organdy, chiffon, velvet, and clinging lamé.

Evening gown, 1939
Pale pink lamé and black silk lace appliquéd with black silk velve
The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Evening dress, spring/summer 1938
Rayon
The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Evening dress, summer 1931, collection Les Arts Décoratifs, U.F.A.C

I love the thought that good old Maddy was an intensely private person, apparantly avoiding public displays and mundane frivolities and often expressing a dislike for the world of fashion, stating: “Insofar as one can talk of a Vionnet school, it comes mostly from my having been an enemy of fashion. There is something superficial and volatile about the seasonal and elusive whims of fashion which offends my sense of beauty.” Vionnet was not concerned with being the “designer of the moment”, preferring to remain true to her own vision of female beauty.

1937

1922

Evening coat, summer 1936, collection Les Arts Décoratifs, U.F.A.C

“dépôt de modèle” photography, summer collection, 1922, Les Arts Décoratifs collection, U.F.A.C

 

With her bias cut clothes, Vionnet dominated haute couture in the 1930s setting trends with her sensual gowns worn by such stars as Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn and Greta Garbo. Vionnet’s vision of the female form revolutionized modern clothing and the success of her unique cuts assured her reputation. She fought for copyright laws in fashion and employed what were considered revolutionary labor practices at the time – paid holidays and maternity leave, day-care, a dining hall, a resident doctor and dentist. Although the onset of World War II forced her to close her fashion house in 1939, Vionnet acted as a mentor to later designers, passing on her principles of elegance, movement, architectural form, and timeless style.

1935

Logo Madeleine Vionnet designed by Ernesto Michahelles dit Thayaht, 1922

Madeleine Vionnet, Dancer Irene Castle, 1922

Evening dress, winter 1921, collection Les Arts Décoratifs, U.F.A.C

Cecil Beaton, Madeleine Vionnet

“Robe Quatre Mouchoirs” dress, Winter 1920

Edward Steinchen, Marion Morehouse and Ruth Covell, 1932

xx

 

Kimono-a-go-go

I am in 1940′s HEAVEN right now! My kimono-style silk 40′s robe arrived this week and I could not be happier with it. It is so gloriously dramatic and luxurious I just want to lounge around all day in it. It’s hard to see from the photos but it is this beautiful creamy pale green colour with the delicate embroidered floral pattern picked out in glowing metallic peacock shades.

The lining is a dusty pink crepe de chine and the label is discretely placed in the left shoulder saying “Lily Piermont Gowns, 11 West 56th Street, New York”. This company no longer exists but they were placed in a very prestigious area just between Broadway and Central Park. The fact that the label is in the shoulder and not the back shows that it is a very high quality garment as they would not embarrass the lady by placing a label where it might showed when she removed the garment (ha!).

I feel a full blown obsession coming on……this sweetheart is top of my wish list.

xx

Veda Pierce is a total bitch, and I love it

So I finally finished Mildred Pierce tonight, the Christine Vachon/Todd Haynes/HBO  2011 re-make with Kate Winslet & Evan Rachel Wood in the starring roles …and I’m so torn between wanting to strangle Veda and wanting to be her best friend. The most loathsome fictional character ever created but also the best dressed?

Wood’s performance as Veda was truly trans-formative.  The film up to that point had been mainly about Mildred Pierce “trying to make it.”  Their relationship seemed secondary and almost inconsequential until Evan Rachel Wood showed up.  She was fierce, fabulous, and, finally, BELIEVABLE.  She was so believable, in fact, that I grew feelings of sympathy and sadness towards Veda.  Wood embodied Veda in physical mannerisms, voice intonation, eye communication: she did it all.  She skillfully communicated the complex torture of an insecure, starving, yet powerful spirit undergoes when it’s rotting to death and struggling to fight it off with a pitchfork.  She had insurpassable chemistry with Winslet.  Mildred & Veda were finally Daughter Adored & Mother Loathed.

I finally understood Veda’s revulsion with Mildred and Mildred’s obsession with Veda.  I think of Mildred as Dorian Grey and Veda as the painting he hides in the closet which accrues all the ugliness he harbours inside.  On the outside, Mildred seems hardworking, loving, and fair, but internally, she’s tortured by an unbearable shame she feels toward her “humble” identity and station in life.

Veda, an extension of herself, takes on all her self-loathing and her relentless drive to rise above that abhorrent feeling of worthlessness — at whatever cost.  She’ll do anything not to be classified as “a peasant — a very ill bred person” — not to turn into her mother.

I could go on, and on, and on.  What I’m trying to say is that Evan Rachel Wood as the terrifying, heartbreaking, and unreachable Veda was truly spectacular.

And these last two screenshots are from my FAVOURITE scene. Honestly I was screaming “KILL HER KATE WINSLET!” at the telly during this. The imagery and colours of the shots are amazing, her naked sly walk to the dresser, her lighting of the cigarette and when she drawls ‘Motherrrr’. So. Fucking. Good.

Guy Pearce was also a great Monty in the mini-series and I’m going to let this photo speak for itself…….

Soooooo juicy!

I totally recommend everyone check this 5 part drama out, it’s honestly one of my top films I’ve seen this year.

Long Live Veda

xx

Grumpy Sunday

 

I’ve been in a mood all weekend. The weather hasn’t helped, and all I want to do is stay in bed and  eat watermelon, drinking tea and  watching Mildred Pierce. My mood always reflects in my dress, hence the very funeral-orphan-esque mood of today.

1920′s vintage silk drop wait dress – Ebay

1944 black suede pumps – Clara Fox

vintage millinery flowers reworked

gifted pocket watch necklace

1950′s velvet opera coat – Shag


I’m going to stop being a sook…..NOW. Tomorrow expect colour.

xx

Two Things…

Two things making this beast of a hangover more bearable…

1. This video of the evolution of women’s dress from the ladies over at Glamour Daze. an early fashion ‘retrospective’ from 1929 looking back at how women’s fashions had evolved in the 15 years spanning from 1914 to 1929. No other fashion era displayed such a change in women’s styles than the years which followed the  First World War up to and through the decade of the 1920′s. The 1914 sequence features clothes designed by Lady Duff Gordon [ Lucille Ltd ]- a survivor of the Titanic and one of the few remembered female names in haute couture of the 1910′ era.

2. This french double waxed floral headpiece from Parisian Cowgirl’s Etsy shop. I’m currently obsessed with vintage wedding dresses and accessories, I’ve recently purchased a beautiful 1920′s cream silk and lace wedding dress and I’m waiting for it to arrive in the mail (photos imminent). I love how unique and stunning 20′s wedding dresses were, not like weddings today that just remind me of Katherine Hiegl movies. Gross.

Happy Saturday

xx

Bobs Your Uncle!

Me, Photobooth, 14/6/2012

I’ve always had my bob. From a young lass with a bowlcut of strawberry blonde to a black, angular cut of a late teen, and now a more sophisticated, sleeker darkest brown. I’ve dabbled in other styles briefly, growing it out to just cut it back once more. Nothing compares to a tapered neck-line, a perfectly shaped fringe and a graduated bob.

Being a bit down this week having still not found a job (please somebody hire me!), I thought I would treat myself to a $25 cut at the Biba Hair Academy (so lavish, I know). I instantly felt more myself again, and it got me thinking about my bob-spirations. So here are some sassy women who I have taken lead from in the past.

Louise Brooks.

My total muse in just about everything, pure perfection. A constant style reference, and one of the most obvious in regards to bobs, but you can’t go past the original pioneer.

Clara Bow.

Especially in her role of Rosie O-’Reilly in Rough House Rosie (1927), this other equally ‘It’ girl of the 20′s has always been a huge influence, and lead me to play with pin curls and various other styles.

Anna Karina in Vivre Sa Vie.

If Louise Brooks is my 20′s crush, Anna Karina is my 60′s Brooks. Beautiful in every film, the doe-eyed Danish actress, singer, writer, director and artist has me in constant battle….to do the chop, or go for the medium length 60′s locks?

Elina Löwensohn

This Romanian-born American actress caught my eye with her take on the bob in the Hal Hartley films, Amateur andSimple Men.

Uma Thurman

Pulp Fiction. I mean really, enough said.

Phryne Fisher (Essie Davies)

Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries began this year on the ABC. A new Australian drama set in 1920′s Melbourne, following Phryne Fisher as she “sashays through the back lanes and jazz clubs of Melbourne, fighting injustice with her pearl-handled pistol and her dagger sharp wit”.

I tell you what, if I got a dollar every time the old lady on the train or the man at the convenience store told me ‘You look just that Miss Fisher lady from the ABC!” I would never have to work again. I didn’t want to like this show, the acting and story line isn’t that great, and I HATE being told repeatedly how much I look like somebody else, but this show has fantastic costumes, a lead star with an unfaltering bob and she is SOOO SASSY it’s not funny! Like, seriously has a different man every episode and keeps a gun in her garter. My guilty pleasure for 2012.

So there are some of my favourite bob-spirations!

I’ll leave you with this short story by the beloved F. Scott Fitzgerald called Bernice Bobbed Her Hair. Well worth a read and a laugh.

xx

Femme Fatale No.1, Pola Negri

I’m going to be profiling prolific influential women from the past under this new umbrella, Femme Fatale. I’ll be primarily looking at women from the early 1900′s through to the late 1960′s. Most of them will be film stars,artists, authors, muses, socialites and designers. If anyone has any requests, let me know!

First Femme Fatale is Polish born actress, Pola Negri.

Pola Negri  (1897 – 1987) was a Polish stage and film actress who achieved worldwide fame for her tragedienne and femme fatale roles from the 1910s through the 1940s during the Golden Era of Hollywood film. She was the first European film star to be invited to Hollywood, and became a great American star. She also started several important women’s fashion trends. She is known for being one of the most popular stars of the silent film era, and her varied career included work as an actress in silent and talking films, theater, and vaudeville; as a singer and recording artist; as an author; and as a ballerina.


Pola sings ‘Paradise’ in the 1932 film, A Woman Commands

Born Appolonia Chalupek, she was brought up by a single mother in a Warsaw slum. As a teenager, she trained at the Imperial Ballet School, debuted with the Imperial Ballet as a cygnet in Swan Lake, and danced in lead roles. She quit dancing after a bout with tuberculosis, then took up acting, which she studied at the Imperial Academy of Dramatic Arts in Warsaw. In 1913 she made her stage debut as an actress, and within a year she appeared in her first film. Soon she was a top screen star in Poland, prompting director Max Reinhardt to invite her to appear in his stage play Sumurun in Berlin; she remained there for five years, becoming internationally famous as the star of a number of major German films.

Bella Donna, 1923

Shadows of Paris, 1924

Flooded with contract offers from Hollywood, she moved to America in 1923 and signed with Paramount for $3000 a week; she thus became Hollywood’s first imported star. Her exotic, mysterious, passionate qualities caught on with American audiences, and she made numerous popular films; eventually her salary went up to $10,000 a week. She attracted a great deal of publicity for her offscreen romances and her long-term feud with rival Gloria Swanson. She divorced her husband, a Polish count, and made headlines with an engagement to Charlie Chaplin; she broke with Chaplin and took up with Rudolph Valentino, enhancing her sex-siren image.

Madame DuBarry, 1919

Valentino’s death in 1926 marked the beginning of her slip in popularity with the American public, which grew bored with her flamboyant exploits. With the advent of the sound era, she returned to Europe. From 1927-31 she was married to a Russian prince; she divorced him because he mismanaged her investments during the stock market crash. She became popular again in Germany after starring in several films there; she was ordered barred from films because she was thought to be part Jewish, but Adolf Hitler personally overruled this decision due to his fondness for the mother-love film Mazurka (1935), which he reportedly watched once a week for its tearjerking effects on him. It was rumoured that she and Hitler were romantically linked, but she successfully sued the French magazine that began the rumour.

Sappho, 1920

She settled on the French Riviera, then returned to the U.S. in 1941 after the Germans invaded France. In 1951 she became a U.S. citizen. After 1941 she appeared in only two additional films. She lived out the rest of her long life in well-off seclusion. She authored an autobiography, Pola Negri: Memoirs of a Star, before passing away in 1987.

Photograph by George Hurrell

I consider my work great, as I am a great artist.” ~ Pola Negri

xx

The Great Catsby

haha!

I’m a little apprehensive about Baz Luhrmann’s adaptation of Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby. Maybe it’s just because in my mind no one can replace Mia Farrow as Daisy Buchanan, but I just didn’t get terribly excited when I saw this trailer like I thought I would. Something about it didn’t seem authentic enough. I guess it lives up to the theatrical, over-dramatised and costume-y aesthetic I associate Luhrmann with (not the hugest fan).

Who do you prefer as a couple?

Also why didn’t I know about/have $6000 to buy Mia’s outfit from above when it was up for auction last year?? I need to know who owns this outfit now!!!

I guess we’ll just have to wait and see if Luhrmann gets Gatsby or Catsby.

xx

Venus in Furs & Von Follies

I woke up this morning to the loveliest surprise…..my new 1950′s chocolate rabbit fur coat had arrived in the mail! I purchased this darling off UK Ebay for a steal, AUS $80 including shipping! It’s the richest mahogany and sooooo unbelievably luxuriously soft, not to mention in amazing condition for it’s age. I had to put it on and take it out for a spin straight away, and luckily it was a gloomy cold day in Melbourne which made it perfect fur weather. I was planning on taking some nice snaps of it tomorrow but I’m so in love with it I had to share straight away.

Please excuse my terrible camera and messy room!

These photo’s do not do it justice, I’ve got a serious fur swoon goin’ on right now. Stay tuned because in the next little while I’ll be going through my fur collection, speaking about how to care for fur, the ethics that surround it  as well as profiling my fabulous friend Nick’s extensive collection which, I dare say, rival’s anyone I’ve ever met. Seriously, this guy has a ‘fur-drobe’!

I ventured out this afternoon to the city for a coffee and a wander, as well as to venture to Target as I had been meaning for a long time now to get myself some pieces from the Dita Von Tease  line, Von Follies. I’d seen them briefly, and the 1940′s shapes and styles were instantly on my wish list

The range debuted at Loreal Melbourne Fashion Week back in March, where Dita herself made appearances to promote the line. This is what she had to say about the range…

“From age 16 I worked in a lingerie store, and I had a very strong interest in the history of underpinnings and how styles changed from decade to decade. Even at age sixteen, I wanted to be a lingerie expert, so I did everything I could to learn about it! I started collecting vintage lingerie at a young age, and my love for it is what lead me to imitate pinup art of the 1940s, and that is what sparked my career as it is now. Even back then, I equated beautiful lingerie with femininity and everyday luxury rather than seduction. Of course, the art of seducing with lingerie is a wonderful thing, and I am quite aware of the effect it has….but first and foremost, a woman should seduce herself by choosing lingerie that is both beautiful and functional that she can wear in her everyday life, and so bringing these things together, along with affordability, is what I aimed to achieve with my lingerie collection.”

I picked up the blush pink overwire set, and being freshly unemployed, it was hard to stop at that. The range is so affordable it’s hard not to justify getting the whole range!

There is also currently 30% off at Target, so get in before they’re all gone!

xx

Black Magic Woman

I’m throwing myself into a Wiccan phase all over again. Moons, stars, magic, crystals, gypsies, incense, black velvet and lots of lace, Edgar Allan Poe, piano shawls, dark lipstick, candles, pointed boots, black cats and Buffy Sainte-Marie.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Galliano

Image

Maxine Sanders

Image

Image

A–Morir ceramic floral sunglasses

Image

Image

Vintage 40′s dress by Bustown Modern

Image

Image

Romeo + Juliet

Image

Image

Image

Antique Victorian boots via Etsy

Image

John Galliano Fall 2007 RTW

Image

Image

Image

Stevie Nick’s interiors

Image

Image

NARS velvet matte lip pencil in Train Bleu

Image

xx